![]() ![]() Metal braided brake lineABSMulti-map Bosch 9MP ABS (3 Track, Sport, Rain + Off), deactivable and with RLM (Rear wheel Lift-up Mitigation).WheelsCast aluminium wheels with 3 split spoke design. ![]() New Brembo floating caliper with 2 insulated Ø 32 mm pistons. Metal braided brake line.Rear brakeØ220 mm disc. New M432 Brembo monobloc radial calipers with 4 opposed Ø32 mm pistons. Wheel travel: 130 mmFront brakeDouble Ø320mm lightweight stainless steel floating discs. SACHS piggyback shock absorber with adjustable spring preload, compression and rebound damping. Wheel travel: 120 mmRear suspensionAluminum alloy swingarm. Ø43mm SACHS upside down units with one-by-one separated damping adjustments. Gear lever with Aprilia Quick Shift electronic system.LubricationWet sump lubrication system with oil radiator and two oil pumps (lubrication and cooling)ClutchMultiplate wet clutch with mechanical slipper systemTraction managementAPRC System and Aprilia Performance Ride Control which includes Traction Control (ATC), Wheelie Control (AWC), Launch Control (ALC), all of which can be configured and deactivated independently through the race display.CHASSIS / SUSPENSION / BRAKESChassisAluminum dual beam chassis with pressed and cast sheet elements.Front suspensionSACHS steering damper. Choice of three different engine maps selectable by the rider with bike in motion: T (Track), S (Sport), R (Road)Exhaust4 into 2 into 1 layout, single lambda probe, lateral single silencer with butterfly valve controlled by engine ECU and integrated trivalent catalytic converter (Euro 3) (Euro 4 ready)TRANSMISSIONGearbo圆-speed cassette type gearbox. 4 Weber-Marelli Ø48-mm throttle bodies with 4 injectors and latest generation Ride-by-Wire engine management. Its just a coil of wire, unless it gets really messed up there isn't much to go wrong.Ĭheck your kill switches, and even disconnect the wire to them, usually the black wire from the CDI unit, can't count how many times i fought a no-spark condition only to find out it was a rusted up kill switch shorting the kill wire.ENGINEEngine typeAprilia V4 longitudinal 65°, 4-strokes, liquid cooling system, double overhead camshaft (DOHC), four valves per cylinderCapacity999.6 ccMax power (at crankshaft)167 HP (123 kW) at 11,500 rpmMax torque (at crankshaft)82 lb-ft (111.5 Nm) at 9,500 rpmFuel systemAirbox with front dynamic air intakes. Its definitely possible you have a problem with the stator coil if water got in there and corroded it all, but usually even then i find its just a broken solder joint and a quick touch up with the soldering iron gets it working again. I just took a 24v bulb, but a 12v bulb would work to its just what i had laying in the junk box, and put a clip lead on for the ground and a bullet connector to plug into that wire. I made a test light for checking them this year, my old faithful one broke. But even with the recoil you will see voltage, if you have an analog voltmeter that works even better for this cause you can see the needle swing on the meter faster then you can see the digital meters digits change up and down. If it was an electric start you can usually read around 10-20v AC output on that wire when spinning it over with the starter. If you have a voltmeter set it to AC volts, put the positive lead on the black/red wire and the negative lead to the motor case, pull it over a few times, you should see voltage. I replaced six of them this summer alone on a junkers i got running and fixed up for people. I go through CDI units like arse wipe here. I would almost bet on the CDI, seems like every time i get one with a no spark condition the first thing i do is just grab a spare CDI and toss it on and it fires up. ![]()
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